A Naughty Nautical Day

It all started with a long s-bahn (street train) to the suburb of Blankanese (blawnk – a – nays – uh) a lomg ways west of down town. A walk to the beaches of the Elbe river reveal the wrecks of 2 old boats sitting on the sands for visitors to check out. I will copy and paste the storiees into a photo below. One is an old wood steamer, covered in slime, and the other a submarine.

Next was a visit down the (in)famous Reeperbahn Straße (which is now officially my favorite streetname, well, tied with Pirate Street in Newport Beach.) The Reeperbahn is also Hamburg’s neighborhood of…uhh…questionable promiscuities. But it is also the main street for travelling East an West, so tons of people take it. But off Reeperbahn on a connecting street is Club Indra. A small club, famous for one tiny little thing. The location of the Beatle’s first performace, at least in Germany, some sources say first performance ever, and some say only first in Germany. Anyways it was neat. Next was down to the Hamburg Museum, a cool museum focusing on the history and origins of Hamburg of a port city, continuing on with the nautical theme of the day. It has lots of cool stuff, including what is generally believed to be the impaled skull of famous 14 century pirate Klaas Störtebeker. Though he was a vicious monster, he is sort of romanticized and has several statues in his honor aound northern Germany. (DNA testing with the skull and his descendants tested ‘inconclusive’.) The skull was stolen in 2010, allegedly by goth people who wanted to use it for rituals, but it was recovered by police the next year.

Next, continuing on with the oceania theme was a trip to the famous International Maritime Museum. Its got 9 floors of fun, each floor focusing on  different aspect of the ocean. From early exploration, to ship evolution, deep sea exploration, ships of war and history of naval warfare. One of these exhibits was Großadmiral Karl Dönitz’ (who was the grand admiral of the Nazi navy and supreme commander of U-boat warfare) baton, which was a personal gift from Hitler. It also had floors for shipping freighters and vacation cruise tavel, a floor with lots of old paitings, and a floor with literally thousands and thousanss of little eensy teensy boat replicas. It had many guns as well, including an ak-47, it later explained about modern day piracy. Very interestingly, earlier in the day I walked past a store I had not yet seen its kind of. A gun store, with lots and lots of handguns in the window.

Then went back to visit the remains of th St. Nicholas church which was almost completelty wrecked in WW2. The only part that really survived was surprisingly the tall tower (which is currently undergoing heavy renovations.) The ruins now stand as yet another memorial of WW2, and is dedicated to victims of Nazis, and of violence.

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On October 20th 1926, an old Finnish four-masted schooner-cum-motor glider, the Polstjernan, was cruising along the Kiel-Canal, when its engine abruptly exploded. Fueled by a cargo bay loaded with wood, the vessel caught fire and couldn't be quenched.
A rescue boat dragged the ship to the Elbe river while still smoldering. A few days later, it was towed away and left along the beach of Blankenese, west of Hamburg’s harbor, weighted with stones, and turned into the present-day breakwater seen now. At low tide it's possible to walk up to the wreck without getting one's feet wet.
The Polstjernan is not alone at this site: after World War II, submarine scraps were added to the Polstjernan’s seawall. A few meters away also lies what is left of the barge Uwe, sunk there in 1975 after colliding against the coaster Wiedau. The Uwe was torn into pieces and while most of these chunks had eventually been towed into the harbor, it became apparent its stern was too heavy, and was left between the Polstjernan and the Lighthouse of Blankenese, where it remains to this day.
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This boat was surrouded by sinky sand traps. One step you'd be fine, and the next your foot would by stuck in gooey slimy sand. I had a scary race against time around the wreck as a large container vessel passed by sendin large wakes. The boat fully blocking my path, and I had to step slow and carefully so my shoe wouldn't get stuck and pull right off. The waves easily could have soaked my shoes up to my shins, but I escaped with a little time to spare.

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The plaque on the wall, seen just above the driver's sea in the previous photo. My own translation without help! On August 17th, 1960 the Beatles took the stage of the Indra. It was their first performamce in Germany, and the start of a great career.
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Hamburg Museum.
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Notice the large nail above. He was caught and beheaded, and had his head impaled on a board. There is a fairly humorous tale, (likely true) that after he and much of his crew were beheaded, (38 or so heads all impaled on a spike on a plank of wood) the town council asked the executioner if he could go on killing anymore people. He unwisely replied he would kill all the council members as well. The council promptly had him...joining his pirate victims. I guess he and the council did not get along.
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A highly accurate wax recreation, sourced by a photograph taken of him in 1341.
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One of said statues of Klaas Störtebeker.
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I was kidding about the photograph part. This is in the Maritime Museum.
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Te scepter of Karl Dönitz, whose photo is first on the left. The newspaper reports the verdicts of te Nuremberg Tials, and which leaders were to be executed.
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A model of the Rickmer Rickmers I ironically stumbled upon, made from whale bone.

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Some of the chrch ruins, this would have been right in the middle.
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This is on of the 2 memorial statues, and at night is definitely one of the creepiest things I have come across.
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A goofy place near my hotel. Google döner if you really want to.
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Very clever shop name if you ask me. Thanks for asking.
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Insert childish giggles here.

One thought on “A Naughty Nautical Day

  1. How neat to see where the Beatles first played in Hamburg, Germany, at the Indra!
    Hamburg sure has a lot more to see than I ever thouhgt!

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